I was simply
amazed to think that there is another way to reach Korzoke from Kaza.I
was informed about this route from Tenzing our old friend from Kibber,
but I was little confused. Nothing about this route was known to me, when I
tried to gather information about Takling La nothing comes to me. In other side
Parang La was very known one to me, so rather making a plan from Korzoke to
Kibber, I choose a different plan. We decided to approach Pare Chu from Kibber
over Parang la then trverssing left we would cross takling pass. As per our
programme we not have to come to Tso-morari. We contact with Tenzing Chiring, and
he agreed to guide this route.
Parang la is
the most famous trek route of Spiti, this treks takes the people from Kaza to Korzoke
village over 18,600 ft. The route follows the traditional trade route between
Ladakh and Spiti.Takling La is a parallel trek route of Parang pass. The route separated from norbu-sumdoh (not actually from Norbu sumdoh but little
distance away of that place from Tsomorari side) and ends at Kyoto
.After leaving the Rupshu valley one enters into Takling valley or midan whatever you like to
say. Both Rupshu and Takling Valley are hi-altitude plateau but first one is
the grazing grounds for some nomads and latter one is not accessed by any one.
We started our
journey from Howrah and reached Kalka after two day. Taking a car on rent we
came to Recong peo. Reckong Peo,
also known as Peo is the administrative headquarter of
Kinnaur district located 231 km away from Shimla. Next day we started
for Kaza. That road has simply awesome panoramic view. We crossed three small towns
Nako, Tabo and Sumdoh one by one.
When we had
reached kaza it was evening but still sun was not fainted. There we have seen sun
set at 7:30 p.m.
2nd July, 2011 we reached Kibber
village after visiting kaza monastery and collecting Kerosene and rations from
Kaza market place. Before coming to Kibber we pray for our success on Key-gompa.
It located on top of a hill at an
altitude of 4,166 meters. Key Gompa is said to have been founded by Dromton (1008-1064CE).
Our two porters Rinchen and Champa came from the nearest
village Chechem. We hired two asses to carry the luggage. Kibber is a beautiful
village 18 km from Kaza. That day we finished our dinner early but enjoyed the
stars up to late night’s .That was fabulous, billion of twinkling stars at a
glimpse says million stories.
Trekking days:
Day 1
(03/07/2011):
We started lately; at the beginning the road was very simple
with gentle slopes and loops. After one hour we descended in a gorge. After
crossing Parelungbi river we followed the right bank of the river. After one
hour more we reached Dumla. One spitian welcomed us with hot tea, after making
breakfast we started to trek again. Crossing a hump I saw the road was
continuous upward. That was a long walk, after 3 hour we reached in a valley.
Many cairns makes us confused, Tenzing was little distance behind, so I decide
to take rest. Half an hour after Tenzing came to that place and gave us the
direction to walk. Again we have to descend in a gorge, after few minutes
descending we got a flat ground, Thaldak. Rinchen was waiting for us there, he
asked - Where is the tents? Wind is strong to day, and its already evening.
Thaldak have a problem of water and not very wide place .Taking our dinner we
said good night to the darkest evening of that month.
Day 2(04/07/2011):
Continuation of that descendant way of yester day leads
us to the base of the pare-lungbi gorge. Here every one follows the river. A
one hour gentle walking leads trekker in a place where pare river leaves no
place to walk, so river crossing is must. After that we trekked upward again,
after one hour reached Jugtha (or
jukta). Scorching heat of sun was became a challenge for walk. In this route
there is no tree no shed. Exposure of Jugtha was little more and camping site
was quite narrow comparable to other camp sites, so it gives a different view.
We take our dinner after 8:00 p.m. Night was cold, we gone to bed (or mat) just
after dinner.
That was mid night, when I
wake up. Tenzing and other was in hyper mood. When they asked for the reason
why they was so excited, he replied that a Wolf had came there and injured our
asses !!
-what?? My expression was
unexplainable. No one never seen wolf here, so we were surprised, and also
perplexed and tensed after hearing that one ass are severely injured. He was
bitten many times and his right back leg was unable to give him support in time
of climbing.
Day 3(05/07/2011):
Day 3 was spent by us doing nothing. We are kept awaited by
destiny. At evening Tenzing returned to the camp with a new one. That night we
spent very cautiously. We burnt juniper shrubs near our tent.
Day 4(06/07/2011):
Early we started to reach foot of Parang la. Weather was
partially cloudy. Initially the road was full of ups and downs but latter it
was stiff upward. After Borogen or base camp it gives little relief then again
as well as upward. After few kilometers a depression was seen by us, Tenzing
told us that was Parang La, and where we have to occupy tent to day. Just
little distance before the pass snowfield was observed by us, but that was not
difficult to negotiate. We established our camp just on the foot of the pass.
Day 5(07/07/2011):
We walked max to max half kilometer when we seen our-self
on the top of depression. Spiti side of the pass was not covered with snow but
one other side a ice field was observed. We stayed there nearly 45 mins, after
making pujas we started to descend downward. The glacier was not very difficult
to negotiate. It was the most gentle walk ever I experienced in my life over
any glacier. Crossing the glacier we take left side and follow the left bank.
It takes one and half our to cross the glacier. We were the first team of that
year who crossed Parang La. so route was not open ice field was not permissible
to the donkeys. We seen two Colombians they were just behind us, they had also
four donkeys so it came to us immense helpful, our porters mutually with there
porters helps the donkeys to cross glacier. That day was cloudy, after few
minutes snowfall started. After three and half hour we reached a place named khorsa-gogma.
After crossing the pass route was plain, it was nothing but the dry river bed
“Waadi”. Khorsa-gogma was a fabulous place surrounded by many unnamed peak.
Some red flowers were abundant on the camp site, I don’t know there name but
their leaf was edible, Rinchen said it tests sour.
Day 6 (08/07/2011)
WE ON PARANG LA-5605 mt |
Day 6 (08/07/2011)
The route of takling La was separated from the place
where Pare Chu and takshan nala meets. We walked towards that place. The route
was not very special it’s quite same like yesterday. After few kilometers the
route follows left bank where as route toward Tso morrari follows right bank. takshan
chu is the most beautiful place of that route. We stayed overnight there, night
was not very cold.
Day 7 (09/07/2011):
Next day morning we seen weather was cloudy, that day we
also walk over river bed but that day we had to cross many streams and takshan
river couple of time. Cold day makes little problem but lastly we reached
takling sumdoh a wide and large valley. Takling La base camp is approachable only
after crossing that valley. We walked for four hour to cross that valley but
till it was not crossed really large it was. We seen a group of kiang, But for
a moment. After crossing the sumdoh we take left direction. Just walking few
meters we establish our camps. That Night was freezing.
Day 8 (10/07/2011):
TAKLING LA -5500 mt. |
Day 9 (11/07/2011):
Day 9 was our last day of trek, we started after the
morning, walked gently and after crossin a river we got a narrow strip for walk,
may be that was used by the villagers for grazing. We followed that way. After
two hour we reached again to the river base level. Taking a turns we have seen Talipul.
After reaching Talipul we make tea and celebrate our successful trek with tea.
Kyoto was four km away from there and from Talipul motor able way is available.
Fortunately we got a car that was going to Kyoto from Kaza side; we hire that
car and reached Kyoto at 1:00 pm.
Next days were quite enjoyable for us. From Kyoto we came
to Manali via Kunzhum Pass, Batal, and Rhotang Pass. After two
day we came back to Kalka and boarded on Kalka mail for Howah.
Photo:
Avirup Banerjee (Team Member).